Global Citizenship Day – Child rights

04/04/2013

The third Global Citizenship Day (GCD) of the Hawassa program took place on Tuesday2 April at the home of the founders of Ebenezer Grace, an orphanage in Hawassa. Alice, Yewel, Salem, Conor and Louisa facilitated a morning of knowledge sharing regarding the rights of children, both globally and specifically to the UK and Ethiopia. The setting was very relaxed, outside in the garden with coffee and biscuits – this helped particularly because of the topics being covered being quite heart wrenching.

Volunteer Yewelsew giving out drinks to us all while we listen intently

We also heard from someone* who actively campaigns for children in Ethiopia. We heard information about different rural tribes and their treatment of children and women due to their beliefs. Some things were really hard to take on board but are a regular occurrence here. For example there is one tribe that insists a pregnant woman goes into the bush on her own when she is in labour to give birth to her child before she returns to the community. As you can imagine this is a huge health risk and terrifying experience both for mother and child and several women never make it back to the village with their babies.

The key thing that was discussed was children being labelled as ‘Mingi´ which basically means outcast. A child can be considered as a mingi for any number of reasons, and once this label has been placed the child is condemned to death either by being abandoned in the bush/jungle or by being drowned in the river. Reasons a child will be considered a mingi include; birth out of wedlock, the birth of twins, the eruption of teeth in the upper jaw before the lower jaw, and chipping a tooth in childhood.

The most shameful part of this practice is that the Government claims it no longer takes place, you are not allowed to highlight these issues – it is punishable by jail or death. Whilst it is known this continues it is defended as being “cultural” and “traditional” therefore the government does not intervene and even prevents NGOs and other do-gooders from making a change in order to preserve the “history” of the country.

There is legislation in place which outlines the basic rights of children in Ethiopia, it seems though that whilst these things are on paper, they are not wholly in practice – no doubt the same can be said for many other countries in the world.

They are set out as: Every child has the right:

1.   To life;

2.   To a name and nationality;

3.   To know and be cared for by his or her parents or legal guardians;

4.   Not to be subject to exploitative practices, neither to be required nor permitted to perform work which may be hazardous or harmful to his or her education, health or well-being

5.   To be free of corporal punishment or cruel and inhumane treatment in schools and other institutions responsible for the care of children

This is me working with the 'just add water'
colouring books, they are rather fun!

The afternoon session of the day took place at Tabor Elementary School with a newly formed organisation which aims to improve the lives of street children. Around 20 street children attended. After a quick discussion in Amharic that outlined their rights as children and young adults and encouraged them to take an active interest in their future, we took to getting creative.

Some of the volunteers had acquired some art materials from the UK and put them to use. We did some face painting, chalk drawing, painting and colouring. It was heart-warming to see these children which have hard lives just revert to being children and doing something enjoyable in a safe environment. Many of them had similar stories, either they have no parents or they were disowned by them due to finances and have come to be a community together on the streets earning what they can and keeping themselves alive. They are not in education, which will directly affect their future and they are often victims of abuse and illegal activities. When the session ended we left the materials with the organisation leaders in the hope that they will make use of them again to provide some respite for the children again in the future.

Volunteer Alice working with the children painting

The general consensus of the day was that it was very informative and rewarding, several of the volunteers have shown a particular interest in continuing to work and campaign for children in the future.

Kx

*It would be dangerous for me to reveal who was talking to us about these things as it is such a sensitive and political topic in Ethiopia therefore their identity will be withheld. 

Feeding the stereotype

03/03/2013

This subject is quite sensitive, I write about it from my own point of view which is formed solely from my experience in Awassa.

Being a white face in an area that is used to seeing foreign volunteers has its pros and cons. Just walking down the street you will get children and adults greeting you kindly, thanking you for choosing to come to their country and help. You also however get abuse, verbal and physical from just as many people.

I myself have been slapped, had rocks thrown at me and had my breast groped by complete strangers in the street – all of which are not particularly positive images to share, and not something I thought I would experience in my time here. In the beginning this was really tough to deal with, it made me angry that the community that I had come to help had people who would treat me like this. These one off events would ruin my whole day, leaving me upset and desperate to go home.

On the contrary, I have had children run and hug me, happy to see someone to practice their English with, as well as men offering to take me to dinner and show me around the area. There were other people shouting “Konjo” (beautiful) at me, and asking how I am. Some adults have enquired as to why I am here, taking a genuine interest in the fact that I am a volunteer and wishing me well for my time in Ethiopia. On these occasions my low spirits are definitely lifted and my faith in the people here restored.

Many of the comments I have heard are catchphrases that have been learnt by many to communicate with foreigners. They are not always used in the right context but the right sentiment is there. Sometimes I am happy to stop and chat, other times I find that the attention I am getting is not well intended. Chants of “One Birr” and “You, give me money” make me not want to stop – for I cannot fulfil their requests.

I find myself ignoring people who are talking at me, not something I would normally do but feel is reasonable in the circumstance because they can be very persistent otherwise. Of course there is some retaliation when I have ignored people, I have had young boys call me a ‘motherfucker’ and say “we can rape you”. I have certainly given my share of retorts to comments like this, those that know me well will know that I am not one to walk away from situations without giving my fair share - particularly when the above groping situation occurred  I lashed out in return at the perpetrator, letting it known to him and those around that I will not allow anyone to treat me this way. 

Why don’t I just give them some money? Well I am of the opinion that this just feeds the stereotype of western people being ‘rich’ and therefore being capable to give money out to everyone. It is also a very short term solution to provide.

One altercation I had with a bajaj driver confirmed the stereotype I am talking about. The journey I made was no more than 2birr; this is the amount I handed him when I got out the vehicle. He then said “no, 10birr” so I laughed and said “no, 2birr, Habesha (locals) pay 2birr” and he said “white people always pay more, give tip, must be 10birr” so I just said “well not this white person” and walked away. This showed his expectation of being over paid for taking me as a fare, and sadly I disappointed him. This is not the only time it has happened either, I even find myself being targeted by Bajaj drivers as they want to pick up the white people over the locals. No doubt plenty of other white people have been kind enough to over pay for their short journey. Is this kindness or again feeding a stereotype?

This type of situation frustrates me, because in my mind it is racist. Can you imagine if the cab drivers in London decided your fare should be more or less depending on your race? It would be scandalous! After the above mentioned scenario a man stopped to ask me if I was okay and what the problem was, so I explained to him and said I was fine and thanked him for asking. He said to me “you must remember that some people are not educated and therefore they do not understand their attitude is not always in the right place”. Part of me agrees, but another part of me thinks that pleading ignorance does not make this behaviour excusable.

I find myself regularly saying to people “I am a volunteer, I work for free, I have no money with me, and I am here to offer my skills to help you not money”. This usually gets across that they are asking the wrong person for direct aid. It does not come easy to say this either, when you think ‘there is no harm in giving them a few birr’ but really there is as it once again feeds the stereotype they have of the West.

It makes it difficult to engage with locals, in the back of your mind you are always wondering “what will they ask me for? Do they want something more than just to know me?”

A few of the other UK volunteers I am with will give the odd person in the street a few birr and sometimes even some food if they have lunch left over. When people talk to them they will stop and chat, maybe even exchange phone numbers and pleasantries. There is of course nothing wrong with doing this, but where do you draw the line?

Last night someone we met through our placement phoned one of the volunteers I was with and asked to join us. We were at a hotel using the Wi-Fi and relaxing, so he came to see us. Within a few minutes of arriving he had given her a story about his mother phoning him just before he had phoned her, and that she was unwell. He is in paid employment, but proceeded to ask her directly for money so he could go to visit his mother. This then went from asking her for help to directly wanting the 4 of us to give him money when she explained she did not have that much money to ‘lend’ him. The situation was awkward, she wanted to leave and it was at this point I felt I had to say something. "Sorry, but we cannot lend you money, we work for free, we only have a little money and it has to last us for another 7 weeks until we go home. Please stop asking, you are making us uncomfortable” – he then left.

I cannot say whether his story was true or not, but what I do know is that he only joined us to ask for money , he did not want to spend time with us at all– this really upset my friend and it is what has prompted me to write this account.

As a whole most of the people I have met have been welcoming, I do not want to be seen as making huge generalisations, but from experience we are seen as cash cows. Maybe it is because they are used to Westerners coming here for short periods of time, either as volunteers or holidaymakers, ‘splashing some cash’ and then leaving. Could it be that the western attitude towards foreign aid and travelling the world is actually contributing to the stereotype against us?

I think it is a shame that the people here think that all we can offer is money, between us we have various other skills to offer as a team of volunteers, but as they say money makes the world go round…

Kx

Happily ever after

28/02/2013

On Tuesday evening I was taken to a wedding by my host parents. The key piece of information they shared with me was that it was an Ethiopian woman marrying a ‘ferenge’ man (who I think turned out to be American of Chinese decent but I never got the chance to speak to them).

The ceremony was in the evening at a hotel function room, we arrived about 6:30 and it was gone 8:00 before anything kicked off. We were treated to a few songs and some music from a male singer and keyboard player. The colour theme was white and orange, there were archways with fairy lights over the aisle and lots of ornate flower arrangements. At the end of the aisle there was a raised stage, with two thrones and some other decorative chairs, all adorned with satin covers and sashes. There was a camera crew who had all area access, complete with a man that held a flood light attached to an extension lead to make sure there was enough light for the video to look good. There was a screen and projector to show the video live on the wall for the audience, something that was use throughout the event.

 The stage ready and waiting for the happy couple.

Camera crew at work

Quite a lot seemed to happen outside of the main room before we got a glimpse of the bride and groom. The mother of the bride was dressed in traditional clothing, with her hair and making up looking fabulous. Just outside the door they lit some flames which looked a bit like giant incense sticks. An announcement was made and the crowd of 200+ all stood up. Then the bride and groom came in followed by the wedding party, and their parents who then all lined the sides of the aisle. The bride and groom then took to singing and dancing up and down the aisle, whilst the crowd all clapped and joined in whilst still standing. She was dressed in and Orange and golden yellow dress, with her groom in a matching waistcoat. Her bridesmaids and the men had white and orange outfits, and other family members in traditional clothing. (for privacy I cannot post photos of them).

When this celebration came to an end, the bride and groom, with their wedding party took their seats on the stage. A gentleman, who I will assume was a pastor (it was a protestant wedding) then gave a quick introduction in Amharic and English, then followed this with various prayers in Amharic – the repeated used of ‘Egzebhair’ and chorus of ‘amen’ gave clue to this!

When this was finished, the mother of the bride left the room, followed by the camera man and went to exhibit the food which was waiting outside for the party. Then the bridal party went out and chose their food from the buffet and returned to eat. This process was then followed by the rest of the congregation. The buffet was certainly a feast, there was no shortage of food of all varieties and there were even two whole roast lambs being carved by the chefs.

 Mary had a little lamb…

Whilst we ate there was some music playing and some video footage of the newlyweds enjoying some video time at the gardens in a local resort. We left shortly after – I am unsure if this was for my benefit or because this signalled the end of the ceremony.

It was certainly different from any other wedding I have been to, and such a nice cultural experience. Especially because it was a union between a national and a foreigner, I’ve been told that the groom has lived in Ethiopia for a good few years and now they are married they are going to live in America for a few years, splitting their time between each country – a true example of cultural exchange!

Kx

I say potato, you say potato

13/02/2013

Just as I start to think I am getting to be on the same page with the locals here, I find out that I am in a whole new book of my own. I say this in regards to general courtesy of organisation skills, timekeeping and work ethic.

These three things are very important to me, and I tend to find I am very efficient at them all, most likely from having worked in corporate environments but also because this is just part my personality. This is one of the things I am finding most frustrating and difficult to adjust to.

Here, in Ethiopia, timekeeping is not a practiced art. Everyone is very laid back and casual about getting to where they should be at the time the vaguely agreed. I usually find people who are tardy rude, particularly when they are considerably late and fail to courteously tell me they would be – for me this would be polite practice at home. “Hi, sorry I am on my way but I’m going to be late!” – This is yet to happen, and I don’t think it will. Not because they are intentionally being rude, but because it just does not seem to occur to them, nor does it seem to matter. It is a completely different mind-set to what I am used to. It is also fair to say I am not a patient person, and waiting around is not something I particularly enjoy!

I know I am used to fast pace environments, I am often told I do not relax very much at home and I am always doing something. Thus, I am always getting things done, completed, accomplished, achieved, use any word you like.

It is exactly 3 weeks since I left the UK today, and so far I do not feel I have accomplished enough to justify my time spent here. This is not for lack of trying, but just because everything is at a slower pace here. I am going to have to learn to expect less and get used to the ‘do it later, maybe’ attitude I seem to have found.

I cannot help but think how much more would get done here if the work ethic of many organisations was a little more like mine, we could sail through things and change the country in a couple of months (Okay, okay, that is maybe a little ambitious, but we could certainly achieve more in a shorter space of time). This would only work if everyone was on board, and sadly it seems that it is only I, and maybe a few other UK volunteers that would be.

I conclude that I will have to try to blend to the attitudes I perceive here, and hope that when I go home I will just spring back to my usual busy, organised and timely self! This is not going to be easy, as getting frustrated seems to come more easily that accepting lateness or getting nothing achieved from a day of ‘work’ – hakuna matata as they say.

Kx

I realise that I am generalising in this post, this is based on some of the people I have encountered so far, who all share a similar mentality on these topics, therefore generalising is rational. However I would not go as far as to say that all Ethiopians fall into this category. At the moment in time of writing this is my opinion and feelings on such matters.

Language Hurdles

08/02/2013

My Amharigna (Amharic) is proving to be slow to develop. It is mainly that pronunciation varies greatly, and I find myself trying to write notes phonetically, and then lose all ability to recall what it is supposed to say.

Needless to say I have a few words stashed that I am finding rather useful, the translations being ‘enough’ (enough food, I am full), ‘good’ (I am good, this food is good, you are good) and ‘thank you’ (no explanation required).

Many people here have a basic understanding of English, and I find I am careful in what I say and how I say it. Mainly for fear that my off the hand comments or mutterings could cause offense or be misconstrued. This is so much so that I find myself muttering in Spanish to myself, because I know what it means and no one else does. It is mine, my own secret ‘¡dios mio!’ exclamations when I am exasperated, which mean nothing to the locals - much like their rapid speak means nothing to me.

Walking down the street proves to be a challenge of anger management and realisation that the language used is not mean to be rude, though in the UK it would be seen this way. I often hear “YOU!” being shouted to get my attention; something in the UK we just would not do in a friendly manner. I’ve also acquired several sisters and brothers from another mother as it seems I am also “Sister!” to everyone. Then of course there is “Ferenge!” which I have probably mentioned, and my retort is now to call them “Ethiopian!” in Amharic, which often receives a giggle or two.

I have also found that some Amharic to English phrases are interesting, for example, Zelalem my placement supervisor uses “possible” over “yes”. Try it, next time you go to say ‘yes’ say ‘possible’ instead. Its rather a positive outlook I think!

No doubt there will be plenty more language quirks over the next few weeks. I just hope I do not end up in the situation where I cannot speak Amharic and my English has debilitated so much that I can barely speak it correctly either!

Kx