Saturday 23 March 2013

I like piña coladas and getting caught in the rain


22/03/2013

As the title suggests I am a fan of cocktails and spontaneity in the rain, only one of these two things have occurred here in Hawassa!

When I arrived I had a weather discussion with my host father, in which he assured me that the months I am spending here are dry months and there will be no rain. Much like the ‘seasons’ in the UK this has not held true.

Of course when it rains here it actually pours, you get the whole shebang not just a few trickles. It comes down heavy and fast causing everyone to scarper to the nearest shelter. One day I waited long enough for it to be lighter so I could walk home, after all our skin is waterproof, but a couple of minutes into the journey the heavens truly opened and I joined the locals in sheltering until it passed.

This is the view I had while I sheltered; the bajaj drivers had abandoned their vehicles to stay dry!

This was my drowned rat state when I returned home in the rain

I did actually come prepared for rain, I have some rubber flip flops which are more suitable for rain than my other shoes, and I have a rain mac with me. The key to making use of these things is to actually have them with me when the weather turns which so far has not happened. It is so unpredictable, the majority of the day could be glorious, and then late afternoon/early evening it turns entirely. The beauty of it is watching the sky change colour like a chameleon to the mood of the weather, and seeing the area around you light up by the flashes of lightening.

This is the weather rolling in over Lake Hawassa, the image is not perfectly clear as there was no light other than the lightening for the shot.

The best part of this weather, for me, is getting home, drying off, feeling a chill and putting on something warm - it causes a real nostalgia of the UK (and I hear that even in mid-March the UK is being ravaged by cold weather and snow). Even better is the sound of the rain plinking on the tin roof while I drift off to sleep like a melody that drowns out any other noise that would normally disturb me.

The interesting part of it all is that in the mornings after the rain, you would barely know it had happened. There is not a puddle in sight and the ground is barely damp, whether it is soaking in or evaporating in the heat I am not quite sure. One thing that is certain is in the days leading up to the storms the heat is scorching, and once the storm has passed the temperature comes down to a bearable level again.


Kx

Lake Langano



21/03/2013

On Saturday 16th March we made our way to Lake Langano as part of our Mid-Phase Review (MPR) and to participate in the VSO Ethiopia conference – the first to take place in 3 years. We were fortunate that our MPR could be pushed back a couple of weeks so that it overlapped with the conference. It allowed us a 5 day break to enjoy some time together and we were reunited with the other ICS volunteers who are based in Addis Ababa.

Lake Langano

Lake Langano is a picturesque area, the large lake is inviting for those that want to swim and the water is considered to be ‘safe’ - although it is murky brown in colour it is refreshing. I only swam once, finding myself busied with other things and missing the opportunity to go again, the thing I noticed most was that the lake itself does not get very deep until you are considerably far from the shore, this is a benefit for the few who were not confident with swimming although it could hinder your attempts at trying.

Sunday was the start of our MPR, we spend the day together as a full ICS team, around 40 of us in total, discussing various things about our placements and our experiences so far. Across the Hawassa and Addis team there is a huge variety in sectors covered by our placement work so it was good to hear what the other volunteers have been doing in the last two months.

The full VSO ICS team in Ethiopia, complete with VSO Ethiopia conference t-shirts


Monday marked the start of the VSO Ethiopia conference. All the VSO volunteers in Ethiopia gathered, some have been here for years; others are just starting their permanent placements. Again, the areas covered are vast, from Family GP to education and much more, I noticed that many of the long term volunteers were ‘skilled’ in certain sectors and were either here in their ‘retirement’ time or here to gather some experience to launch their careers. We were referred to as the youth Volunteers (although I soon found out that I am roughly the same age as many of the long term volunteers and was often asked ‘why are you here as a youth volunteer and not a regular one?’ – I am not sure I have an answer for that at the moment!). We did not participate for the full day on Monday as we were finishing our MPR off, however we re-grouped with the conference for a session that they called ‘Open Space’.

The purpose of the Open Space session was for people to share some skills they have with other people. On the first day, some of the options were; reflexology, photography, face painting, bird watching, and storytelling – can you guess which one I got involved with? Face painting! I was the first guinea pig, being painted as a tiger and we soon branched out to taking it in turns to paint each other and try new things. Here are some of the art works created:



Tuesday was a day of being integrated with the conference, we were all mixed up into small groups and asked to discuss various case stories and scenarios which reflect moral issues within volunteering – it was interesting to see how our short time here compares with the experience of the other volunteers. The afternoon brought another Open Space session and this time I offered my origami skills (though I had not brought my paper to the lake with me which made me kick myself). I only had a few people join me, but it was enough to be able to share the method of folding a Japanese Warrior Hat, Water Bomb (Cube) and the perfect Paper Aeroplane. My claim to fame here is that the CEO of VSO Ethiopia came to learn from me and was particularly excited about the paper aeroplane!

Each evening we had buffet food and some spare time to socialise, although some of our efforts to enjoy the scenery were scuppered by the frequent storms we got each night. In particular on Tuesday night, we sat watching the storm form around us, with lightening illuminating the lake and thunder rolling in before the heavens opened and we huddled for shelter. On the last night we had a barbecue of sorts, and a bonfire but the weather rained on our parade and we retreated inside to party the night away before we headed back to our respective placement areas on Wednesday.

Kx

There is no place like home


14/03/2013

It was an oversight not to pack my ruby slippers for my trip, I am not sure that my flip flops can be considered a good substitute. There have been a couple of occasions where I have wished I were Dorothy, being able to click my heels and return home. Alas I am still on the yellow brick road, with a few weeks remaining until I stumble back to Kansas.

Much like the venture to Oz, I hoped this trip would bring me courage, strengthen my heart and feed my brain, I can safely say that so far all of these things, and much more, have transpired.

As I anticipate returning home, because there really is no place like it, I turned to my fellow volunteers and asked them to finish the following sentence;

‘When I get home, I cannot wait to…….’

The survey says;

“When I get home, I cannot wait to bathe, with candles, bubbles and a glass of wine.”

“When I get home, I cannot wait to get into my own bed, with fresh sheets and fluffy pillows.”

“When I get home, I cannot wait to eat bacon.”

“When I get home, I cannot wait to see my mum and my sisters.”


If we were in Oz, no doubt the Wizard would grant these requests, but for the mean time we will make do with chasing the flying monkeys and avoiding the wicked witch.

Kx


Thursday 14 March 2013

Coffee for the community


14/03/2013

This article is written as part of my role within the Media team for the volunteers placed in Awassa, it is published for the VSO ICS program.

On Saturday 16th February 2013, VSO ICS volunteers Habtamu, Jess and Tsion organized a coffee ceremony by Lake Awassa to create awareness of Fiker Behiwot Orphan Children and Youth Association within the community (FBOYA).

FBOYA, it is a member of the national NGOs, licensed by Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, Charities and Societies Agency as an Ethiopian Residential Charity. It has 542 members and is the only orphan association in Ethiopia. They represent children and young people who are living with HIV and affected by the epidemic. Their Vision Statement is to have orphan children & youths, who can stand for society free of HIV/AIDS and have strong self-esteem.

One of the goals of the placement program is to raise funds which can be used to support 5 children for a full year. This would include their educational material, books and uniforms etc. The volunteers decided that the most effective way to engage the community would be to hold a coffee ceremony, something which is much revered in Ethiopia.
In the week leading up to the event date they produced cards to distribute which were sold for 5birr each. With the help of all the VSO volunteers in Awassa they distributed all the cards, raising over 2,000Birr and bringing the event to the attention of a large portion of the community.


Picture: Tsion, Habtamu & Jess preparing for the event.

On Saturday afternoon the event was set up with speakers, informational posters, coffee ceremony decoration and people dressed in cultural clothing. During the event quite a crowd appeared, there were around 500 people watching, with more people coming throughout. A traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony took place; fresh coffee beans were roasted and ground whilst incense burned and cups were prepared with sugar. When the coffee was ready it was given out to the crowd with popcorn whilst the different acts performed.

The Youth Campus Club and Eyerusalem Club performed traditional cultural dancing, drama and singing. There was also a solo guitar and singing performance by Laura, a VSO volunteer from the UK.

 
Picture: Dancers performing traditional Ethiopian dance

Picture: Laura singing and playing guitar with Habtamu holding microphones

Most important was the input of the Fiker Behiwot team, discussing the benefits of the organization and the future plans, emphasizing that it needs the help of the community for their vision to be attained. The event was a big success; it has certainly increased the community knowledge of Fiker Behiwot and the VSO presence here in Awassa. The fundraising was a huge triumph, and a great time was had by all.

The team will be continuing to innovate and fundraise during their time with FBOYA to try and meet the set target before their placement ends.

Kx

Global Citizenship Day - Disability


14/03/2013

This article is written by Alice Duckett as part of her role within the Media team for the volunteers placed in Awassa, it is published for the VSO ICS program.

Raising Awareness on Disability in Hawassa

On Thursday 21st February the VSO ICS Hawassa team held our first Global Citizenship day on disability, throughout our 12 week program we will have four GCDs focusing on issues we have noticed within the local community that we want to challenge.

For this topic the morning activities were held at AESTD – one of the volunteer placements that works with disability. Here four of the volunteers facilitated some learning for the rest of the group; we began the morning with identifying famous people with a disability and then learnt some less obvious ones who suffer with mental disabilities. We then answered a questionnaire which was passed onto the organization for their research; this was to find out more about our experiences and attitudes towards disability. The morning session finished with a quiz where we all learnt some statistics on disabilities within England and Ethiopia.

In the afternoon the team of 18 was split into four groups, these groups went out into the community to work on issues AESTD are currently backing. This included gathering signatures from the people of Hawassa for education and training services for persons with disabilities to be built using the government budget put aside to see that every child has access to primary education. In just a few hours we managed to collect 301 signatures including the manager of The World Food Program.

Kieran Gilberthorpe who helped organize the event said ‘It was great to get the team together to work on issues we are all passionate about, the event was a success and we managed to raise awareness on not only my placement organization but on problems disabled people in Ethiopia face”

To complete the day a small panel of people with disabilities that work with AESTD were taking questions from the volunteers on disability within Ethiopia and what is being done to help them and what frustrations they are facing when working on change.




Written by Alice Duckett

Global Citizenship Day – Gender Equality


14/03/2013

This article is written as part of my role within the Media team for the volunteers placed in Awassa, it is published for the VSO ICS program.

Friday 8th March 2013 marked the Global Citizenship Day (GCD) on Gender Equality held by ICS volunteers based in Hawassa and International Women’s Day.



International Women’s Day 2013 brandishes the slogan “The Gender Agenda - Over time and distance, the equal rights of women have progressed. We celebrate the achievements of women while remaining vigilant and tenacious for further sustainable change. There is global momentum for championing women's equality.”

The purpose of a GCD is to raise awareness and create topical discussion regarding different global issues. Over the duration of the three month program, four GCDs will be held. This was the second one to take place. Alex, Endalkachew, Fisseha, Kimberly and Laura were responsible for organizing the day. The majority of the event took place at Ebenzer Grace, an orphanage which is also the placement organization which Fisseha is part of.

Their intentions for the day were to provide information to the other volunteers about Gender Equality, discussing it at a global level and bringing it in to Ethiopia. To put the information into context the contrast between the UK and Ethiopia were highlighted. The topics covered included; a brief history of women’s empowerment around the world, information about International Women’s Day, details of Millennium Development Goal 3 – promote gender equality and empower women, key facts from the Global Gender Gap Report produced by the World Economic Forum, African gender issues, excerpts from the National Policy for Women in Ethiopia and role models from the UK and Ethiopia which break ‘gender specific’ expectations.

Following this, the group was split to have segregated male and female coffee ceremonies. It was agreed that having segregated discussions would allow for comfort and confidentiality to ensure that the topics covered were openly reviewed. The men went to another venue to have their coffee ceremony and discussion.

Each coffee ceremony consisted of the ICS volunteers and a couple of guests from the community. It was vital to have people from the community involved to learn the perceptions of gender equality from the people that it matters to. It also ensured that there were a couple of generations involved, and therefore comparisons could be made from the past to current day. Some of the items raised in the discussion included; Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) and other Harmful Traditional Practice (HTP), how a young woman can develop her self-esteem and self-image in the eye of the community, and what contributions can be made by the male population of Ethiopia to empower their women.

After the debates came to an end, the volunteers regrouped to review and compare the outcome from each group. The general consensus from both groups brought agreement on the importance of changing opinion and improving female status in the community. The female group had in depth and precise information as the community members involved had a breadth of real life scenarios to share. Their stories had a direct and emotive effect on the volunteers. The men had a different perspective on the subjects and also discussed some situations that had been rumored in the area.

As a whole the GCD was informative, it brought a lot of quality discussion and raised several critical issues which proved to be an eye opening for many of the volunteers. For some it has cemented that there needs to be considerably more done to close the gender gap around the world and that education on HTPs needs to be at the forefront.

Kx

Sunday 10 March 2013

Nurture or Mutilate?

08/03/2013

The topic covered here is controversial, I write from my own point of view, based on my current experience and situation. My intention is to bring a key global topic to the attention of those that choose to read my blog. The language used is frank and the subject raised is emotive.

As part of my volunteering role I was involved in a team of 5 to arrange a Global Citizenship Day (GCD), our topic was Gender Equality. We held our GCD today, with particular reference to the date being International Women’s Day. We held an educational morning for the other VSOs in our team discussing Gender Issues globally, and then bringing it down to the area of Ethiopia we are in. For the latter part of the event we had segregated male and female coffee ceremonies to enable confidential discussion on topics affected by gender equality.



I have been prompted me to write this blog post by something I came across whilst doing my research for the GCD, it is a global issue but some of the things I will mention are specific to Ethiopia. I knew about it vaguely, but was unaware of the realities of it and how globally spread it was. Particularly that is happens ‘under the radar’ in the UK.

Female Genital Mutilation or FGM for short is one of the main Harmful Traditional Practices (HTP) in Ethiopia. It is now illegal, but of course is still present due to ‘tradition’ – when I asked if anyone knew why it had been started, and thus become a tradition, no one could answer me. It is just ‘the done thing’ for many communities.


So, what is FGM? Well as the name suggests, mutilation means to ‘cut off’ or ‘amputate’ parts of the body. There are four types of FGM, although many of the practitioners do not differentiate between them and just do whatever is customary for their area.

Circumcision, is the cutting of the hood of the clitoris, it is also referred to as ‘Sunna’ in Muslim countries. I will note here that generally the men of Ethiopia are circumcised, as dictated in the Bible, within 7 days of birth.

Clitoridectomy, is the removal of the clitoris, scientifically known to be the most sensitive part of the female body. It is also responsible for the pleasure sensation felt during intercourse – something they will never experience.

Excision, involved the cutting of the clitoris and all or part of the labia minora.

Infibulation, is the most severe form of FGM. It involves the cutting of the clitoris, labia minora and the whole of the labia majora. The two sides of the remaining skin of the vulva are then pinned together by thorns and thread, thus sealing the vaginal opening except for a very small hole. The small hole is to allow for the passage of urine and menstrual blood. The girls’ legs are then bound from hip to ankle and she will be kept immobile for weeks to ensure the formation of scar tissue.

All of the above ‘procedures’ are often performed by medically incompetent people, without the use of anaesthetic or pain relief – if they are lucky they will get to sit on a stone for a little while beforehand to ‘numb’ the area. It is said that the ‘cutting’ is usually done by a broken piece of glass, a razor blade or a thorn. There is no sterilisation of any of the items used or the area in which it is done.  

Not only is this practice excruciatingly painful for the victim, it brings about many other health issues; bleeding (which is often fatal), shock, infection, urine retention (the burning sensation felt when urinating after the procedure often leads to this), tetanus, laceration, HIV/AIDS, urinary tract infection and pelvic infection (as a result of retention of urine, menstrual blood and vaginal secretion) – to name a few.

Girls are generally under the age of 16 when this is done to them; usually they have not had their first period when they are cut. I have read accounts of girls being subjected to this as young as 3 years old – an age where they are too young to understand.

The act itself is painful enough, but it has repercussions in the future too. It is considered that a woman should be a virgin when she marries (this is often why marriages are made so young, to ensure their virginity). For a woman who has been cut in the most brutal way, her first sexual experience will bring no pleasure, only pain from her partner tearing open her scarred tissue (if she is lucky, he may cut it for her rather than just forcing his way in). Child birth is another future issue, with fistula being prevalent for cut women, and many other complications which are a direct result of their mutilation.

Often a ceremony takes place, with music, dancing and singing to celebrate the girl reaching her cutting age. One account I have read mentions that the singing takes lace to cover up the screams of agony coming from the girls. The mothers of the girls are not allowed to be present, because they have experienced the pain of child birth and this makes them weak to seeing their own flesh and blood being subjected to such trauma. To me this is an indication that they know it is wrong, because they know the mothers would show compassion.

So, why is this still practiced when all of the above information is available? Well, it seems that tradition prevails, and of course the risks and moral issues have not reached all the communities. Even those that are educated about the outcome of FGM often disregard it for fear of being stigmatised. So much so that young girls plead with their family to be cut so that they are not outcast from the community, of course not knowing that they will regret it before it is finished being done – peer pressure is just as direct as the pressure from the girls’ parents to be ‘accepted’. An uncut girl is considered to be unclean, and ‘free’ which is why she will remain unmarried in a community with the cutting culture.

There are many campaigns in place, not only in Africa but all over the world to stop this act; from educational information being shared, to young men campaigning that they want to marry uncut girls. Opinion is slowly being changed, I have been reading FGM Network Update and have read a few articles about the women who would carry out the procedure being turned from the profession and now educate people of the risks of the very thing they used to make money from. Of course, they still have people trying to bribe them to do it for them in secret, but the reiterate the fine and prosecution they will face if they are found out.

The catch twenty two of FGM being formally recognised as illegal is that people turn to ‘back street’ options to fulfil their intentions, often causing more complications than necessary. If a girl then begins to bleed profusely or suffer they will take her to hospital. To any medical professional it is obvious what has been done to the girl, but they cannot go to the police or any authority because once word gets out that the hospital are whistleblowing people will stop taking the girls there when they need it – essentially increasing the mortality rate.

The main reason for this coming up in our gender equality discussions is that it is often the fathers that make the choice for their daughters to be cut, even if it is against the wishes of their mother. These young girls are not getting to choose what happens to their own bodies, they are made to be submissive to men. It is said that they do this to girls when they are young to stop them behaving inappropriately by playing or behaving in a free and happy way. They suffer this pain to be reminded who is boss, and will have this reminder regularly throughout their married life. It is supposed to make them strong, and prepare them for the struggle they face in their life, but essentially it is they struggle they face in life.

Kx

References for your perusal:

Desert Flower - the video story of a Somalian super model who was subjected to FGM



Sunday 3 March 2013

Feeding the stereotype


03/03/2013

This subject is quite sensitive, I write about it from my own point of view which is formed solely from my experience in Awassa.

Being a white face in an area that is used to seeing foreign volunteers has its pros and cons. Just walking down the street you will get children and adults greeting you kindly, thanking you for choosing to come to their country and help. You also however get abuse, verbal and physical from just as many people.

I myself have been slapped, had rocks thrown at me and had my breast groped by complete strangers in the street – all of which are not particularly positive images to share, and not something I thought I would experience in my time here. In the beginning this was really tough to deal with, it made me angry that the community that I had come to help had people who would treat me like this. These one off events would ruin my whole day, leaving me upset and desperate to go home.

On the contrary, I have had children run and hug me, happy to see someone to practice their English with, as well as men offering to take me to dinner and show me around the area. There were other people shouting “Konjo” (beautiful) at me, and asking how I am. Some adults have enquired as to why I am here, taking a genuine interest in the fact that I am a volunteer and wishing me well for my time in Ethiopia. On these occasions my low spirits are definitely lifted and my faith in the people here restored.

Many of the comments I have heard are catchphrases that have been learnt by many to communicate with foreigners. They are not always used in the right context but the right sentiment is there. Sometimes I am happy to stop and chat, other times I find that the attention I am getting is not well intended. Chants of “One Birr” and “You, give me money” make me not want to stop – for I cannot fulfil their requests.

I find myself ignoring people who are talking at me, not something I would normally do but feel is reasonable in the circumstance because they can be very persistent otherwise. Of course there is some retaliation when I have ignored people, I have had young boys call me a ‘motherfucker’ and say “we can rape you”. I have certainly given my share of retorts to comments like this, those that know me well will know that I am not one to walk away from situations without giving my fair share - particularly when the above groping situation occurred  I lashed out in return at the perpetrator, letting it known to him and those around that I will not allow anyone to treat me this way. 

Why don’t I just give them some money? Well I am of the opinion that this just feeds the stereotype of western people being ‘rich’ and therefore being capable to give money out to everyone. It is also a very short term solution to provide.

One altercation I had with a bajaj driver confirmed the stereotype I am talking about. The journey I made was no more than 2birr; this is the amount I handed him when I got out the vehicle. He then said “no, 10birr” so I laughed and said “no, 2birr, Habesha (locals) pay 2birr” and he said “white people always pay more, give tip, must be 10birr” so I just said “well not this white person” and walked away. This showed his expectation of being over paid for taking me as a fare, and sadly I disappointed him. This is not the only time it has happened either, I even find myself being targeted by Bajaj drivers as they want to pick up the white people over the locals. No doubt plenty of other white people have been kind enough to over pay for their short journey. Is this kindness or again feeding a stereotype?

This type of situation frustrates me, because in my mind it is racist. Can you imagine if the cab drivers in London decided your fare should be more or less depending on your race? It would be scandalous! After the above mentioned scenario a man stopped to ask me if I was okay and what the problem was, so I explained to him and said I was fine and thanked him for asking. He said to me “you must remember that some people are not educated and therefore they do not understand their attitude is not always in the right place”. Part of me agrees, but another part of me thinks that pleading ignorance does not make this behaviour excusable.

I find myself regularly saying to people “I am a volunteer, I work for free, I have no money with me, and I am here to offer my skills to help you not money”. This usually gets across that they are asking the wrong person for direct aid. It does not come easy to say this either, when you think ‘there is no harm in giving them a few birr’ but really there is as it once again feeds the stereotype they have of the West.

It makes it difficult to engage with locals, in the back of your mind you are always wondering “what will they ask me for? Do they want something more than just to know me?”

A few of the other UK volunteers I am with will give the odd person in the street a few birr and sometimes even some food if they have lunch left over. When people talk to them they will stop and chat, maybe even exchange phone numbers and pleasantries. There is of course nothing wrong with doing this, but where do you draw the line?

Last night someone we met through our placement phoned one of the volunteers I was with and asked to join us. We were at a hotel using the Wi-Fi and relaxing, so he came to see us. Within a few minutes of arriving he had given her a story about his mother phoning him just before he had phoned her, and that she was unwell. He is in paid employment, but proceeded to ask her directly for money so he could go to visit his mother. This then went from asking her for help to directly wanting the 4 of us to give him money when she explained she did not have that much money to ‘lend’ him. The situation was awkward, she wanted to leave and it was at this point I felt I had to say something. "Sorry, but we cannot lend you money, we work for free, we only have a little money and it has to last us for another 7 weeks until we go home. Please stop asking, you are making us uncomfortable” – he then left.

I cannot say whether his story was true or not, but what I do know is that he only joined us to ask for money , he did not want to spend time with us at all– this really upset my friend and it is what has prompted me to write this account.

As a whole most of the people I have met have been welcoming, I do not want to be seen as making huge generalisations, but from experience we are seen as cash cows. Maybe it is because they are used to Westerners coming here for short periods of time, either as volunteers or holidaymakers, ‘splashing some cash’ and then leaving. Could it be that the western attitude towards foreign aid and travelling the world is actually contributing to the stereotype against us?

I think it is a shame that the people here think that all we can offer is money, between us we have various other skills to offer as a team of volunteers, but as they say money makes the world go round…

Kx

HIV Survivors – Natalie


03/03/2013

Natalie* is 16 years old, her father died from HIV they year she was born. Her mother is HIV+, taking ART and currently works as a telephone operator at the Health Bureau. She has a brother aged 24 who has graduated with a diploma in nursing and cannot find work. Her sister who is 19 and left school at grade 6 to be a daily worker and provide some income for the family.

Natalie is a grade 9 student, she is doing very well academically. OSSA can take a little credit for this because they sponsor her education, paying her school fees, uniform, book and material costs. It is vital that she stays in education so that she can provide herself with a reliable future.

She lives with her mother, siblings and grandmother. We also met her grandmother, who moved to Awassa to find her brother several years ago, when she got here she discovered he had passed away. She stayed in the area anyway, and now regrets this as she feels that being here may have been what caused her family to be affected by HIV.


Kx

*names have been changed to protect identity